Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
